Compared with other fruit trees, the winter pruning method of walnut trees is fundamentally different. The reason is that the physiological characteristics and fruiting habits are too different from other fruit trees. The flower buds formed on the branches of other fruits will naturally bloom and bear fruit when the flowers bloom in the coming spring, while the flower buds formed on the walnut branches will bloom in the coming spring. It will not naturally flower and bear fruit at the implanted part. You must first extract a new fruiting branch with 5-6 leaves, and then use the top bud of the new fruiting branch to flower and bear fruit. Therefore, the pruning plan and pruning method must be formulated strictly in accordance with the growth law and fruiting habits of the walnut tree. If you don’t know the method and know the technology, you must follow the apple tree management method to manage the walnut tree. It is both layered and thinned, both lightly cut and long-released, and only knows that the inner chamber is hollowed out. The consequence is The tree grows taller the more you dig, the more you dig, the more hollow it is, the more you dig, the more the part moves out, the more you dig, the lower the yield, and ultimately ends in failure. Therefore, the walnut tree winter cutting technique must be in place, otherwise, the flower buds formed on the tree will not germinate, and will eventually die and fall off. The pruning techniques of walnut trees in winter should be flexibly mastered, and the operation should be treated according to the tree age, physiological habits, variety characteristics, and strength of the tree. The pruning formula is: "Control the strong momentum, retract the long mother branches, cut the autumn branches before cutting, and take the lead after cutting the flowers. The branch group should be renewed, the weak ones should be removed and the strong branches should be removed.
1. Saw to force branches
Some walnuts have hidden buds at the base of the branches, and some are found in the middle and base of the branches. Therefore, for the parts with bare legs, sawing on the hidden buds on the bare legs and deep into the xylem can force new branches. The amount of new shoots that are forced to grow varies according to the thickness of the base branch and the depth of the saw injury. The length can reach more than 1-2 meters (this method can be used on bare parts). If the saw is very shallow, it can only grow For branchlets less than 30 cm long, this method can achieve fruiting branches or cultivate new backbone branches in the bare legs. The new shoots forced out on early-fruiting walnuts, as long as they grow vigorously, can bloom and bear fruit in the following year. Some early-fruiting trees have mixed buds that can bloom and bear fruit in the same year, while late-fruiting trees It takes 3 years for new shoots to bloom and bear fruit.
2. Loop saw
For larger non-spine branches, sawing from the top of the cryptic bud to reach the xylem can not only weaken the growth of the branch, but also make small branches grow out of the bottom to fill the space of the bare parts. The effect is similar to that of sawing a branch. , But the effect is stronger. The spiral counter trephine is safer. Generally, a circle with a thickness of 5-10 cm is sawed, and a circle with a thickness of 10-15 cm is sawed twice. The distance between the two circles is about 15 cm. If the distance is too narrow, the saw If it is too deep, the branches will die.
3. Pinch the branches
Before ligninization (June), the new shoots of the inner chamber can be pressed to the place where there is space if the growth direction is not suitable, because the walnut branches are very flexible and the leaves are large and thick. For branches with a diameter of 5-10 cm or less, In the summer, bend and pull downwards to open the angle to the required angle without the need for sticks to pull the rope.
4. Thinning
For walnuts to sparse large branches, it is advisable to leave an oblique stubble from the low inside and high outside of the base, so that small branches can grow outside to supplement the space, and no residual piles can be left, otherwise the piles will die into holes.
5. Break the top buds
Walnut terminal buds are hypertrophy, with strong apex dominance, which tends to form large terminal buds and run in the middle, with low branching rate. Breaking off the top buds before germination or pinching off the young shoots after germination can increase the rate of branch formation and form a compact group of fruiting branches.
6. Cut young shoots
Pruning the tender shoots that are not lignified in June can make the axillary buds germinate immediately. This method promotes branching and cultivates the fruiting shoot group, which is much better than the short-cut lignified shoots.
7. Change head and retract
Walnut pruning mainly uses the head-changing and retraction method. Short cut is rarely used. If the wound caused by the retraction of the large branch is too large, leave a pruning branch on the target branch to protect the wound, or leave it under the cut A hidden bud.
8. One-year-old branches stay short to protect buds
The pith of the walnut branch is hollow. After the annual branch is cut short, a section of the cut is often dried to make the cutting bud grow poorly. Therefore, when the annual branch is short, a protective bud should be left above the target bud to closely protect it. The buds are short, so that the protective buds can grow small branches, which not only avoids the cutting mouth, but also ensures the growth of the target bud.
9. Three ways to rejuvenate twigs
The annual output of big trees after the full fruit period is mainly dependent on the continuous fruiting of the strong fruiting branch group, and the resulting weak branches cannot continue to form mixed buds. Therefore, timely rejuvenation of the fruiting branches is one of the ways to strive for successive years of high yield; the fruiting branches will grow after a few years of continuous fruiting. To become weaker, we often cut off weak branches in production at present, but on the basis of improving fertilizer and light, and adopting appropriate pruning measures, weak branches can be rejuvenated. There are three main methods:
(1) Retracting basal branches: If the basal branches of the branchlets are slender and thin, cut the basal branches from the upper part of the branchlets to rejuvenate the branchlets.
(2) Cutting the base branch: If the base branch is thick, sawing the base branch from the top of the branch, reaching the xylem, can make the branch rejuvenation.
(3) Short-cut uniaxially elongated branchlets: Some branchlets are uniaxially extended forward to form longer verbena branches, which are weak in growth. If the base of the branchlets is more than 1 cm, the cryptic buds can be left short at the base. New regeneration technology; if the base of the branchlet is a thin branch less than 1 cm, it is usually unable to regenerate new branches from the base after short truncation, and can only be rejuvenated by retracting the base branch or scratching the base branch.
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